Goth And Fashion The New Trend
For several years, goths had a limited quantity of places to buy their dark wear. Hot Topic and Lip Service were the only two areas that sold cheap, basic clothes for weirdos who had to dance to Ministry on the weekends. Now, however, goths have an remarkable world of beautiful designer clothes which exists on the fringes of style, a place that mirrors their standing in culture as a whole. This universe of witchy wear is far enough away from the mainstream that it hasn’t been diluted by notions like seasonal tendencies or commercialism, offering spooky consumers a chance to invest in handmade works of art. Dark fashion has even evolved past the classic over sized blazer and creepers combo: now, motifs include waterfall hemlines and cascading geometrical drapes. Contemporary goth is a style that’s clearly indebted to the work of Rick Owens and Comme des Garcons. However, by being granted its own cultural area to flourish (largely Instagram), it’s united with Western magical traditions and Victorian romanticism to make an aesthetic that’s wholly its own. And while this community has a ways to go when it comes to racial, sex, and body diversity, it’s run mainly by women for women, and lots of these designers collaborate with one another on a regular basis.
The Goth subculture and style permutations related to it have continuously held their place in vogue since the seventies. Weaving in and out of different influences, it is a tricky set to pin down to a defined aesthetic but what has remained constant is the Goth’s love for the undead and all things dark and macabre, with unique offshoots which range from Steam Punk to Japanese street fashion. It is a style medley embracing Victorian influences just as much as Science Fiction and occasionally pink hair, which makes it a really rich subject to follow along with a trend forecaster. The most obvious glue between High style and the Goth subculture is that the theatrical play essential to its background.
More recently, Goth style has entered the domain of road wear and hip culture with designers like Rick Owens, Alexander Wang and Hood From Air leading the way. Paris-based American designer Rick Owens, the most crucial for this latest interpretation of Goth style, has his own cult following. With coveted sneaker namesake layouts and signature long line tees, it was not long until the Rick Owens look made a fantastic impact on the whole hip hop world. By early 2013, the expression Street Goth made it big on the style scene and has been embraced by the likes of Kanye West, Drake and Jay-Z.
What’s intriguing about Rick Owens’s influence on road wear is the paradox. Whilst dark and gruesome, his collections possess an introspective and monastic quality, a far cry from hip-hop’s usual bling and swagger. His cultural references are a lot more complicated, but some interesting links are worth highlighting like the makeup used in his Spring Summer collection, reminiscent of Japanese Butoh dancers, called “the dance of darkness”. Rick Owens has managed to unite such references with street culture, making a major statement with American dance team “Measure with Momentum” who mimicked his collection whilst crumping and stomping. The connection with songs and self-expression is widespread in Street Goth style with one group standing outside – that may also be compared to Frankenstein and his bride– Die Antwoord the South African counterculture rave group frequently connected with designer Alexander Wang.
More recent trend labels are emerging from New York’s scene such as Hood From Air’s, made by Shayne Oliver who brings an anarchist and warrior quality to his collections inspired by a fallen hero, civil protest and street warfare.
There’s a Ninja fighter quality to road Goth design, one we can also link to Samurai armours due to the silhouette. One of the critical elements to the Street Goth “uniform” is multiple layering and skirt length tees, shorts or skirts worn over skinny pants, based on Rick Owens’s cloak like proportions mentioned before. Mixing surfaces, juxtaposing matte and shine with jersey, leather provides the monochromatic look more textural dimension. Interestingly this trend, initially led by menswear is currently being picked up in women wear as seen in Yamamoto’s current Adidas Y3 Spring Summer collection. We can even link the use of leather and elongated silhouettes with bike clothing in addition to cult film character Blade, a half vampire-half fatal fighting bad.
There has always been a romantic relationship between athletic clothes and road wear, therefore it was not long and somewhat of a natural development for Street Goth to affect the sport and health market. This could be regarded as ironic as we do not usually associate Goths with a healthy glow. Could the Health Goth motion be about toning your body in the most emotional, melancholic way possible? This isn’t the case based on Health Goth Facebook page founders Mike Grabarek and Jeremy Scott (the latter not to be confused with the fashion designer). Health Goth combines subcultural such as Goth and cyber punk with the mainstream world of game, bringing Goth style into a completely new context, linking itself into “Accelerationist aesthetics” a motion that looks at how subcultures can develop within our capitalist society, whilst subverting its visual codes — in this case Nike and Adidas.
The simple fact is that the media is jumping on the new term “Health Goth”, emboldened by the tendency for dark monochromatic athletic equipment and irony of comparing gruesome aesthetics with Yoga clothes.
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